Grills: More Than Just a Flex

What we now call “grills” — gold or gem-studded dental jewelry — has existed in different forms across cultures for centuries. As early as 800 BC, Etruscan women wore gold on their teeth to signal status, while the Maya embedded jade into theirs as a symbol of wealth and spirituality.

In later periods, especially in parts of South Asia and the Middle East, gold teeth were favored by royalty and upper classes as markers of beauty and social position. Even in 1990s Tajikistan, gold dental work was seen as a sign of prosperity.

The modern version of grills rose to prominence through hip-hop culture, largely thanks to jeweler Eddie Plein. Known for creating custom gold teeth for legends like Flavor Flav, Plein helped solidify grills as an essential part of the hip-hop look. By the early 2000s, artists like Nelly, Paul Wall, and Lil Wayne brought grills into the mainstream — with Nelly’s “Grillz” music video featuring over 70 close-up shots that redefined luxury through the lens of Southern rap.

What started as a medical necessity in under-resourced Black and Latino communities — where dentists would use gold or silver to preserve teeth — eventually evolved into a powerful style statement. Today, grills have become wearable art.

Contemporary jewelers like Ben Baller, Jacob the Jeweller, Gabby Elan, Dolly Cohen, and Johnny Dang design intricate custom pieces that transcend flashy accessories. Artists such as Pharrell, A$AP Rocky, Vashtie Kola, and Raven Tracy have brought grills into high fashion and personal expression, redefining their place in both streetwear and women’s style.

Smiling with a grill today isn’t just about showing off — it’s about culture, history, status, and self-expression. A legacy of resilience turned into a symbol of individuality.